Honoring the Living and the Dead in Crete (in 4 Parts) --- Part Two: Kandylakia, Memorial Posts, and Cemeteries

The first day I had arrived in Crete, while driving with Ole from the Chania airport to Kalyves (where I would dog-sit for Mickey), I noticed what looked like tiny memorial shrines along the side of the road. Later, while walking with Mickey, I saw a little iconostasis or small church in front of someone’s house. It was one of those moments that stopped me in my tracks... one of those moments that filled my heart with a curious melancholy sweetness. I saw these curious memorial shrines or little churches everywhere.  Mostly, I saw them dotting the sides of roads.

I found this blog that I especially liked (by “Gallivantris”) about these sweet and sacred little reminders...

Kandylakia (“candles” in Greek) are miniature churches and shrines found along roads all over Greece. From bustling cities to quiet, sparsely populated towns, to the many islands of the Greek archipelago, they dot the landscape on highways and dirt roads and in front of businesses and homes. They represent faith and devotion in the Greek Orthodox tradition.

The shrines might be made of wood, wax or metal, but the many we saw were mainly concrete and stone. Some are very simple; others are much more elaborate. Many are as old as the road on which they sit. As the name suggests, most have prayer candles inside them. They are here to remind us to approach the road with caution, to appreciate every moment in life, and to celebrate what a blessing it is to be alive.

Often, Kandylakia are placed where fatal accidents have occurred. Thus, they may appear on winding roads or on steep hillsides with hairpin turns. The small shrines, set by families of the victims, are memorials to the dead. They also warn the driver of potential dangers.  A driver might assess the risk of a particular road simply by gaging the number of Kandylakia on a stretch of road.

Not all mark accidents with a tragic outcome. Kandylakia are also placed by survivors of accidents in thanks to God or the saint which protected them. Other Kandylakia honor weddings or baptisms or bring blessings with protection to the household where they are exhibited. Others simple indicate the location of a nearby church or monastery.

There’s a bit more information in Gallivantress’ full post, and a gallery of pictures well worth your time and attention.

In Kalyves, I also noticed what seemed to be obituary or memorial notices stapled to trees, telegraph poles, and notice boards. There were many of them, new flyers next to decaying flyers, all over the village.  I took a picture of one such telephone pole, zooming in on one flyer. Later, while walking through the cemetery in Kalyves, I saw the picture of the man in the flyer, resting atop one of the graves.

The cemetery lured me in. I spent a couple of hours walking around in it. Near the center was one tall tree – so tall, I had to crank my head onto my back to see where the top touched the sky. The tree grew from the base of a grave marking the year of death: 1932. I wondered about what it was like for the surviving family at that time, to lose this person to death. Had they planted a tiny tree for their newly departed loved one, hoping to balance death with new life? Could they have imagined then how loyally majestic this tree would stand by their beloved, 93 years later?

I read the dates and ages and looked at the pictures on each grave. I wondering about their lives and how their death impacted those left behind. I was especially moved by those who had died when they were young. I noticed when what seemed like a parent was buried years after their child. My heart echoed their grief.

When I left the cemetery and started to walk toward town I had to stop and weep. The depth of compassion I felt for these people – for their grief – even after they too had died, dropped me into sacred territory.

I brought my own need to create sacred territory with me to Crete and offered three “Releasing Ceremonies.” Check out the next blog: "Honoring the Living and the Dead in Crete (in 4 Parts) --- Part Three: 3 Releasing Ceremonies" to read more about these shared events.

In the meantime, please enjoy the following short video of "Kandylakia and Cemeteries in Crete."